The price of your favorite morning beverage could soon spike due to tariffs, and some coffee and tea drinkers are beginning to search for alternatives to provide that daily caffeine fix.
President Donald Trump on Wednesday made good on threats to impose a 50% levy on Brazil, which produces around 35% of the coffee in the United States. Meanwhile, because of import duties on China, India and other countries, the Guardian recently reported that tea has its highest tariff rate since the Tea Act of 1773, a tax that ultimately led to the Boston Tea Party. If these increased expenses are passed on to consumers, that would mean paying extra for a morning cup of joe.
With those looming price hikes, tea made from yaupon — America's only native plant with caffeine — is gaining some buzz.
Leaves and the young shoots of the holly, a cousin of yerba mate, can be dried and made into tea. The drink has a mild, earthy, slightly floral flavor and doesn't have tannins, like many other types of caffeinated teas, so it doesn't get bitter when it's left steeping for a long time.
"The main draw is that it does have caffeine, which typically you're not going to find in an herbal tea, … and then the fact that it's grown in North America, and there's not really too many tea plantations here," said Mike O'Brien, the owner of Craft Tea in Mount Airy. "That's why, with the tariffs, it's been becoming an avenue to look into because it does give you the caffeine while keeping it domestic."
The plant's roots
Yaupon is native to the Southeastern region of the United States, growing along the Texas coast east to Florida and all the way north to Virginia. But that doesn't mean it can't be grown locally. Mandy Katz, director of horticulture and lead gardener at Bartram's Garden, said there's a yaupon plant that's been growing there for over a decade. It's a highly adaptable species, she said, tolerant to different salt conditions and levels of sunshine. It grows as a large shrub or small tree and can be pruned as a hedge.
Renowned botanist William Bartram, who assisted his brother in operating his namesake grounds in Southwest Philly during the 18th century, wrote about the tea during his travels.
"The (Native Americans) call it the beloved tree, and are very careful to keep them pruned and cultivated, they drink a very strong infusion of the leaves, buds and tender branches of this plant, which is so celebrated," Bartram wrote of yaupon in his book, "William Bartram on the Southeastern Indians."
A common misconception of the plant even shows up in its scientific name, Ilex vomitoria, as many falsely believe it can be used to induce vomiting. According to Katz, this fallacy could have developed for a number of reasons, including potentially being mixed with herbs that made people sick as part of a purifying ritual.
In Indigenous circles, Katz said yaupon was an important drink with varying medicinal purposes. The use of the plant expanded in the 18th and 19th centuries, with Confederate soldiers even drinking it during the Civil War.
The tea was also produced and harvested by enslaved people, who drank it to stave off hunger and be able to do their work, said Crystal Stokes, the founder of teaching nonprofit Project CommuniTea in Richmond, Virginia.
"I often think of some of the Spanish folks that came over to the Americas who witnessed the ceremonies of the natives and how they tried so hard to make it seem bad by giving it the terminology Ilex vomitoria," Stoke said. "But then also, in turn, stole it and tried to sell it overseas."
After learning about some of the plant's history and local connections, Becky Goldschmidt, the owner of Random Tea Room in Northern Liberties, created a tea blend featuring yaupon and leaves from Franklinia, a rare tree named after Benjamin Franklin. She doesn't stock it anymore, since most customers preferred her other teas and blends, but she said people did appreciate it for the historical context.
"People loved the stories," Goldschmidt said. "People thought it tasted interesting, but it was kind of delicate. It's not like a big, bold black tea flavor. It's not spicy, it's not floral, it's kind of just a basic, simple tea and not everybody has the palate for that. So the reaction was, 'I think that's really cool. I feel like I'm part of history now, but I probably won't buy this to take home and make.'"
Popularity brewing
While many Philly tea sellers haven't yet pulled the trigger on putting yaupon on the shelves — one said they've spent extra income to stock up on some of their top sellers — they're well aware it could be a future option.
Dope Botanicals, an herb and wellness shop in Rittenhouse, is working on finding a quality supplier. Owners and sisters Taahirah and Nakia Stith said yaupon tea is a gentler caffeine source that's better for focus, compared with the jitters and crash of coffee.
"For most people, they're going to experience the benefit of alertness, of being awake or feeling like, 'Oh, I can take on more tasks, or this is a great start to my day,'" Nakia Stith said.
For those considering swapping out their morning beverage, the Stiths noted that one big difference between yaupon and coffee is that one comes from a bean, lending to stronger flavors, and the other a leaf, so it's more delicate. They also said it's important to consider what people are looking for in the morning: Are they just seeking caffeine or searching for energy from the milk and sugar that goes into some drinks?
"Some people get really sweet beverages in the morning and that's what gets them going in the addition of caffeine," Taahirah Stith said. "But real coffee drinkers, they can adjust a little differently than people who are just hardcore latte drinkers or specialty beverages and things of that nature."
How it's brewed is also important. Goldschmidt suggests pouring cold water on the leaves before adding boiling water to prevent scorching. The Stiths recommended steeping for at least 15 minutes to get the full flavor and medicinal properties and searching for a darker roast that better resembles some of the taste profiles of coffee.
However, whether the plant is embraced as a potential coffee or tea replacement remains to be seen.
"Taste-wise, if we're talking about someone going from coffee to yaupon, they're probably going to be disappointed that it's not bold and rich and in their face," O'Brien said. "But say there's someone who drinks (yerba) mate here, and they're not doing it for the social aspects or communal aspects. If tariffs get crazy for Brazil, I could see them switching to yaupon just to get that boost in the morning. But I don't necessarily find it a necessity at the moment."
Stokes is moving away from selling yaupon and is focusing more on educating the community about the plant and teaching people how to grow it themselves. She wants to see people truly understand its complex history, rather than just use it because it's the newest health craze.
However, she doesn't want people to shy away from it, either. For those who don't have gardening space, she thinks it's best to source yaupon from small producers, especially Indigenous ones. But for anyone with a yard or space for a few pots, she thinks growing it at home and learning how to harvest and dry it will be the most rewarding.
"Usually, we don't have connection to our food, typically, unless you are a gardener or farmer, and I think growing and processing yaupon is probably the most approachable way and easiest way to get into processing your own food and making a product out of it," Stokes said.
Katz, too, encourages people to try yaupon — while also acknowledging its history.
"There's no reason why we shouldn't all be drinking more of this healthy and beneficial plant," Katz said. "But I think it's important to approach with a lot of respect and knowledge. A part of getting to know it is getting to reconcile with its history. … Just like getting to know any friend, learning its past and and all is an important part of it."